Jill No. 7 Elisabeth Djian

4to. Unpaginated. (ca100pp). Printed wrappers. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in French, main articles have English translation. Though Jill existed for only 11 issues- from summer 1983 to october 1985, the small magazine's inflience, and that of its director- 24 year old former law student Elisabeth Djian echoed through the fashion world of the late eighties. Today cited by Marc Jacobs, Hedi Slimane and numerous editors and stylists, Jill at the time broke with the norm in publishing- the magazine was completely independent and devoid of advertising (reputedly telephone calls from potential advertisers were ignored), with Djian running the magazine from her grandmother's apartment on a tiny budget. Many of the shoots and editorials echo what came to be known as 'the new simplicity', though Jill was shot through with a heavy elements of fantasy and orientalism. Djian comissioned hazy shoots by Lindbergh in Egypt and Jean Baptiste Mondino in the twilight hours of the city based on themes from Guido Crepax to the cult 1915 series Les Vampires. This issue has Paris fashion, Bernard Henri Levy, Mugler, Chanel, Yohji, Comme and a Bodymap special.